Working with Deep Set Eyes and Prominent Brows
Posted by Lauren Calderoni on Aug 26, 2016
Sometimes you need to take a nice slow breath and accept that this is going to be an uphill battle
We've all had clients with a prominent brow or deep set eyes. It's that moment after everything is perfectly taped and as soon as they close their eyes everything moves and it seems as if their eye is trying to eat all that was meant to protect the bottom lashes. Sometimes you need to take a nice slow breath and accept that this is going to be an uphill battle. Fortunately, there are techniques to help us conquer these types of lashes.
Many of us were taught to use our tweezers in the traditional method of isolating natural lashes with our non-dominant hand and placing extensions with our dominant hand. (For those of you who are unsure, if you are right-handed that means your right hand is your dominant hand.) This is usually done with two straight tweezers or with a curved tweezer in the dominant hand (see photo) and a straight tweezer separating the natural lashes.
The problem with this is that curved tweezers not only lose alignment more quickly making extension pick up more and more difficult over time but manipulation and alignment of the extensions is not as accurate. I challenge you to switch it up! By using straight tweezers in your dominant hand it may be easier to extend the life of the tweezers while having more control placing the extension and creating a set of lashes more true to the type of curl used.
When using a curved tweezer in your non-dominant hand you will be able to isolate natural lashes closer to the root giving your clients longer extension life as well as more comfort during growth. This method is especially helpful on clients with an abundance of baby lashes curling in different directions. The curved tweezer also fits easily over the eyebrow (see photo) and prevents pinching while you work. You will have the pressure you need to keep plump cheeks from interfering and causing lashes to stick to the tape or gel pads.
While each client has a uniquely shaped face this method is helpful for anyone with a prominent brow, deep set eyes, round high cheeks and lazy lashes (that grow downward with no curl). Crescent under eye stickers are an excellent last layer of bottom lash protection. Stickers will allow the curved tweezers to slide effortlessly helping to cut down on application time. These stickers can easily be cut (see photo) to better fit different eye shapes and will stay smooth while they give some lift at the roots. Just snip off the curved end for clients with wider or less curved eyes.
While using this new technique you may notice refills become easier since grow out is less noticeable and your wrist should be at a more comfortable angle since awkward positions are unnecessary with the help of the curved tweezers. This may even help avoid carpal tunnel syndrome. While it is important that our clients are happy and safe, it is just as important to ensure the health and safety of the lash artist.