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How To Get The Best Eye Shape Look

Posted by Kenna on Feb 02, 2021

Mapping out the most flattering eyelash look for clients based on their eye shape.

It’s not a one size fits all when applying eyelash extensions. The same curl and length does not work for every single client. Anyone that has had a bad eyelash extension experience can attest to this. A good eyelash extension technician will look at each client’s unique eye shape and base the curl and length of the set around that.

Did you know everyone has a different eye shape? There are 6 main eye shapes; Round, Mono-lid or hooded downturn, upturn, protruding and almond. Almond is the most common eye shape among people. You may have also heard the terms wide set or close set to describe different eye shapes. Each different eye shape is beautiful in their own way. Getting to know each eye shape is key when wanting to achieve the perfect eyelash extension look on each client. Have you ever wondered how to best achieve the perfect eyelash extension look for each client based on their particular eye shape? Well, here are a few tips and tricks to follow.

1.Figure out the eye shape the client has. To figure out someone’s eye shape is pretty simple.

-Mono-lid / Hooded eyes: If someone’s eyelid doesn’t have a distinct crease. If the skin hangs down over where the crease should be or if you can’t see the crease in the eye when they open their eyes.

-Protruding: Easier known as “bulging” eyes. When the eye appears to be projected from the eye socket.

-Almond: The description is in the name itself. Shaped just like an almond. The length will be greater than the width.

-Round: If you can see the whites of the eye all the way around.

-Downturn / Upturn: Look at the outermost corned of the eye and see whether it lifts up or tilts down. If the outer corner points up, the eye shape is upturn. If the outer corner points down, the eye shape is downturn.

-Wide set / Close set: Look at the space between the eyes. If the space is smaller than one eye length, they have close set eyes. If the space is bigger than one eye length, the eyes are wide set.

Eye shape for applying eyelash extensions

Eye shape for applying eyelash extensions

After you have figured out the client’s eye shape you will now want to analyze and map out what type if eyelash extension look will make their eyes pop the best. There are many different ways the extensions can be applied to create different looks to best flatter each client. Knowing a client’s eye shape will help you create a look that will accentuate their features the best. This will also make you stand out from other eyelash technician artists, which in the long run will help with your clientele and keep those happy clients coming back time and time again.

2.Mapping; When it comes to mapping out a client’s eyelashes you will want to first decide which look will be the best for the shape of their eyes and what is going to enhance the client’s natural beauty. You can choose between a few different options: Natural eye, doll eye/open eye, cat eye, dramatic, exedra. These are just a few of the more common choices.

-Natural Eye: This method will follow the clients natural lash growth pattern. It is a gradual change in eyelash extension length. This look would be good for any client that is looking for more of a natural look or someone who has an Almond or upturn eye shape.

(Example: 9/10/11/12/11/10/9)

-Doll eye / Open eye: With this method the longest lashes will go over the iris of the eye and then drop down drastically on both the inner and outer corners. This look would be good for a client who has close set eyes or a mono-lid eye shape.

(Example: 8/9/11/12/13/14)

-Cat eye: This method stays at a shorter length until reaching the center of the eye. It will then drastically jump up in length towards the outer corner of the eye. This look is good for clients with a close et eye shape.

(Example: 8/9/10/12/13/14)

-Dramatic: This method starts off with the shortest length in the inner corners and gradually move up in length until reaching the center of the eye. The length will then drastically go up in length from there to the outer corner of the pupil, then drop down dramatically in length to the very outer corner of the eye. This look is good for a client with a eye shape.

(Example: 9/10/11/13/12/10)

Eyelash extension mapping

Eyelash extension mapping

Now to choose the most flattering mapping method to go with a particular eye shape.

Almond shaped eyes are the most common eye shape, they are also the most proportional. Most eyelash extension looks can look good on this eye shape. A cate eye or doll eye / open eye would be the most flattering.

Mono-lid / Hooded eyes; We want to open up the look of the eye. An open eye / doll eye look would be p0erfect for this type of eye shape. Using this style can help add more depth and bring more attention to the eyes. Also using an L or L+ curl is a great way to open up this eye shape.

Protruding eyes; Most people that have protruding eyes also have a round shape to their eyes. The goal here us to emphasize the outer corners making the eyes appear more recessed. It will also make the eyes appear more of an almond shape. A cat eye style or dramatic style is the most flattering for this eye shape because you’re adding extra length and fullness to the outer corners of the eye, drawing more attention to the big, beautiful eyes themselves.

Round eyes; You’ve been blessed with big beautiful eyes that are most likely the most dominating feature. The cat eye is a great choice for people with a round eye shape. It will add length to the eyes and help balance them out, making them appear more of an almond shape.

Downturn eyes are more about how the eyes themselves are angled. A cat eye is a great choice with downturn eyes because you’re wanting to add more volume and length to the middle/ outer corner of the eye. This will create an allusion to the eye making then not look so angled.

Upturn eyes are also about the angel of the eyes. A natural eye or doll eye is a good choice for someone with this eye shape because you’re wanting to create length and volume to the center of the eye. This will create and allusion to the eyes making them appear not angles and straighter.

Open set eyes; This eye shape is more about the spacing between the eyes themselves. A doll/open eye look is good with this eye shape because the goal here is to draw attention to the middle of the eyes helping them appear more drawn together.

Close set eyes; With this eye shape it is also about the spacing rather than the actual shape. A cat eye or dramatic eye look is great for this eye shape. The goal here is to draw more attention to the outer corner of the eye to help the eyes appear more stretched out and elongate them. This will make a big difference, I promise.

When it comes to lashing, I promise if you know how to map correctly it will change your lash game. It is a very vital step in having a happy/returning clientele. Lash mapping is such a great technique that allows the lash artist to create individual looks for each client that will ultimately help you succeed in the beauty industry. The main goal here is to create a look for each client that will not only change their look but enhance the client’s best features.